Jelena Skendzic Ratkajec on the skin barrier, active ingredients & skincare hype

Interview with Jelena Skendzic Ratkajec – Chief Executive Officer / Managing Director of Skintegra

If you want to know how to repair a damaged skin barrier, what a minimalist skincare routine should really contain, and which skincare myths are finally outdated, this interview provides concrete and practical answers. We spoke with Jelena Skendzic Ratkajec about the origins of Skintegra, the most common problems of sensitive and reactive skin, active ingredients, formulations, and the difference between genuine added value and pure skincare hype.

Briefly Explained

• Skintegra emerged from the need for effective and intelligently formulated products for sensitive, reactive, and problematic skin.
• A damaged skin barrier usually regenerates best with gentle cleansing, hydration, lipids, soothing ingredients, and daily SPF.
• A minimal routine often yields better results than an overloaded regimen with too many products.
• Not all skincare myths are true – for example, niacinamide and vitamin C do not cancel each other out, and vitamin C can be very beneficial in a morning routine.
• Skincare hype can often be recognized when an ingredient is widely discussed, but without real context regarding concentration, stability, and actual efficacy.

Who is Jelena and what was the "trigger" to move from blogging to Skintegra? What was the first problem you wanted to solve?

"I am someone who lived for years with problematic, sensitive, and reactive skin. Out of personal frustration, I began to delve into ingredients, formulations, and the science behind skincare. I worked in the beauty industry and maintained a personal beauty blog for nine years. This blog was very educational and scientifically oriented, and through it, I saw how many people share the same problems – and how much they are confused by the market and influenced by grand promises without factual basis.

The trigger for Skintegra was the moment I realized that the market lacked chronically effective, intelligently formulated products for demanding skin – without marketing fog. The first problem I wanted to solve was: How do you soothe inflamed, dehydrated, and acne-prone skin without being aggressive? I had exactly this type of skin myself, and I knew there was a large community of people with the same issues. These people became my first customers, and the quality of the products spread precisely through their personal experiences."

What tests and standards do Skintegra products undergo before launch?

"Before launching, every product must undergo significantly more than just a pleasant skin feel. This includes: Formulation stability tests, microbiological safety and challenge tests
Packaging and formulation compatibility, safety assessment according to EU regulations and preparation of legally required documentation
dermatological tests, where applicable (we conduct them for all Skintegra products before the formulas are released) raw material control and supplier traceability. For us, it's important that a product not only looks trendy and attractive on the shelf, but also remains safe, consistent, and effective months after purchase."

Which Skintegra products are most in demand and who are they suitable for?

"Products that solve real, everyday skin problems or form the basis of a good skincare routine are most sought after. These include:

Cica-Cera: a cream for skin barrier restoration; also Spectra for sensitive skin that is also reactive and dislikes overly occlusive formulations (for example, it is particularly appreciated by men after shaving), furthermore Amphibian and Atomic as a double-cleanse duo, as well as the Retiron line for skin texture, acne, and anti-aging goals.

I don't believe in "the best product for everyone." Every product has its ideal user. I would like people to use SPF more consistently, but it seems to me that UV protection is still optional and seasonal for many."

How do you repair a damaged skin barrier and how long does it realistically take?

"A damaged skin barrier is one of the most common topics in modern skincare, especially for sensitive, reactive, and overtreated skin. Below, Jelena explains what you should first remove from your routine and how long regeneration realistically takes.

First, you should stop doing what damaged it: excessive exfoliation, too many active ingredients, dehydration, and constant experimentation.

After that, the focus is on: gentle cleansing, hydration and lipids (ceramides, squalane, fatty acids), soothing ingredients, and finally a daily SPF that suits the skin's texture and composition. If the damage is mild, you will see an improvement within 1-2 weeks. 

If the skin is chronically irritated, reactive, or overloaded with active ingredients, it often takes 2-3 months of discipline, meaning several cycles of cell renewal. The biggest problem is impatience – people start well and then reintroduce everything at once far too early."

Minimalist Skincare Routine: What does the skin really need in the morning and evening?

"A minimal skincare routine is often the best solution for people with sensitive skin, a damaged skin barrier, or anyone who wants a clear and realistic routine. Here's how Jelena sees it.

Morning:
gentle cleansing or just water (depending on skin type)
hydrating serum / cream as needed
SPF 30+ or 50 – depending on phototype and UV exposure

Evening:
thorough but gentle cleansing, which can be done in 1 or 2 steps – depending on whether heavy makeup, waterproof products, etc., are used
targeted active ingredient (if necessary and if the skin tolerates it)
a cream to restore the skin barrier

Having three good steps and applying them regularly is often more effective than someone using 11 products.

Which ingredients should not be combined: Retinol, AHA/BHA and Vitamin C – what is myth and what makes sense?

"This is one of the topics that particularly concerns people when building an active ingredient routine. Instead of blanket prohibitions, Jelena emphasizes context, skin tolerance, and the actual skin reaction after the routine.

The myth is that you "must never combine anything." The truth is more nuanced.

Rules that make sense:

Retinoid + strong AHA/BHA acids on the same evening = too much for average skin
layering multiple exfoliants = unnecessary and damages the skin barrier
high-potency products (e.g., ascorbic acid) mixed with other keratolytic/comedolytic active ingredients = unnecessary

The general rule is: if the skin burns, is red, and feels tight after the routine, the routine is bad – regardless of any theory about "correct" combining. Skincare myths often arise from outdated information that is repeated unchecked for years. One of these is the claim that niacinamide and vitamin C "cancel each other out." This has demonstrably been proven false. This myth comes from the old assumption that niacinamide hydrolyzes under conditions not relevant to modern cosmetic formulations, and this interpretation was later disproven.

Another common myth is that vitamin C should not be used in the morning. On the contrary: vitamin C can be very beneficial in the morning routine because it strengthens the skin's antioxidant protection and complements the photoprotective effect of SPF products.

The third, perhaps most dangerous, myth is the idea that a strong routine, burning, or irritation means better results. This is a false way of thinking that very often leads to a damaged skin barrier, sensitivity, redness, and long-term problems with skin tolerance. An effective routine does not have to be aggressive to deliver results."

How do you recognize skincare "hype" and by what criteria do you select active ingredients for formulations?

"In the skincare world, trends emerge very quickly – but not every trend brings real added value. That's why it's important to understand what's behind an ingredient, not just how popular it currently is.

I recognize hype when everyone talks about an ingredient, but few explain the concentration at which it actually works, the form in which it is stable, what it can be usefully combined with, who it is really suitable for, and whether it is backed by real data or just a short-term trend. Today, it is very easy to get the impression that an ingredient is miraculous, but often the context crucial for its true value is missing.

When we select active ingredients for a formulation, we are guided by the existence of a serious scientific basis, that they can be formulated stably, effectively, and pleasantly, and that the user experiences a concrete benefit on the skin – and not just reads an attractive marketing claim on the packaging. The goal is not to have the loudest ingredient, but to develop the best product."

 

What should you take away from this interview?

This interview with Jelena Skendzic Ratkajec highlights several important points: good skincare doesn't have to be aggressive, a damaged skin barrier requires patience and discipline, and skincare trends should always be viewed in the context of formulation, stability, and actual effects on the skin. Instead of an overloaded routine and constant experimentation, the best results often come from simplicity, consistency, and a better understanding of one's own skin.

FAQ

How do you repair a damaged skin barrier?

According to the interview, the first step is to stop what damaged the skin barrier – for example, excessive exfoliation, too many active ingredients, and constant experimentation. After that, the focus is on gentle cleansing, hydration, lipids, soothing ingredients, and SPF.

How long does skin barrier regeneration take?

For mild damage, an improvement can be seen within 1-2 weeks. For chronically irritated and reactive skin, regeneration can take 2-3 months.

What should a minimalist skincare routine really include?

In the morning, gentle cleansing or water, a hydrating serum or cream, and SPF are often sufficient. In the evening, gentle cleansing, a targeted active ingredient if needed, and a barrier-strengthening cream are important.

Can you combine Retinol, AHA/BHA, and Vitamin C?

There's no rule that you "must never combine anything," but certain combinations can be too much for average skin. Particular caution should be exercised with retinoids and strong acids on the same evening, as well as with layering multiple exfoliants.

Do Niacinamide and Vitamin C cancel each other out?

No. The interview clearly states that this is an outdated myth that does not apply to modern cosmetic formulations.

Can Vitamin C be used in the morning?

Yes. Vitamin C can be very beneficial in the morning because it strengthens the skin's antioxidant protection and complements SPF.

Does burning mean a product is working?

No. Burning, redness, and tightness are often signs that the routine is too aggressive and not well tolerated by the skin.

How do you recognize skincare hype?

Skincare hype is often recognized when an ingredient is widely discussed without genuine context regarding concentration, stability, combinations, and reliable data.

Which Skintegra products are particularly in demand?

The interview mentions Cica-cera, Spectra, Amphibian, Atomic, and the Retiron line – depending on skin needs and care goals.

Who is Jelena Skendzic Ratkajec?

Jelena Skendzic Ratkajec is the Chief Executive Officer / Managing Director of Skintegra. In the interview, she discusses her experience, her approach to formulations, and her views on skincare.

Note

Note: This article is not a substitute for medical advice. For severe or persistent skin problems, you should consult a dermatologist or doctor.